 |
|
pic: Claudette Jarvis |
In a city teeming with curry houses, Kayal defiantly steps away from the bhaji-balti – and-bhuna routine. Focussing upon the cuisine of the Kerala region – situated at India’s southernmost tip – there’s a distinctly tropical tinge to the menu, with an emphasis on delicate, aromatic flavours and a strong bias towards seafood.
The starters immediately set the place apart; my friend (who had never had a curry before and was extremely daunted at the prospect of spicy food) went for the kidilan konju varuthathu (£5.89) – marinated king prawns seared in the pan with shallots and served with a refreshing coconut paste and a beetroot and onion chutney. Good call; the prawns had a subtly smoky flavour, which was heightened by the accompaniments. I went for the house special; the masala dosa (£4.99). Quite possibly the largest starter you’ll ever come across in town, it’s a huge rice and lentil pancake that practically melts in the mouth, stuffed with lightly spiced potatoes, onions and peas; Indian bubble and squeak, if you will. It’s amazing. End of.
Although there are meat and veggie options a-plenty, it’s the fish and seafood selection that really kicks Kayal into the top drawer. The Kayal fish curry (£9.69) encapsulates what they do best; thick cuts of boneless king fish steak drenched in a smooth, deeply aromatic sauce made from secret ingredients, the most obvious of which is coconut. Unlike some places we could mention, the spices within are actually there to enhance the flavour of the main ingredients, not strip your throat. For my money, the alapphuza konju masala (£11.69) was even better; huge prawns coated in a thick, but never overpowering, gravy shot through with coconut, ginger, curry leaves and onions. Add a bowl of thenga choru – fluffy rice muddled with fresh coconut, white lentils and cashew nuts (£2.69) and a couple of poori – lightly-fried wheat flour flatbreads (£1.89), and you have a substantially hearty meal that ranks as one of the best dining experiences in town.
Kayal is impossible to fault; it’s one of those places that you could come to ten nights in a row and have something different every night without feeling you made a wrong choice, and – like the very best curry houses – it effortlessly demonstrates that just when you think you’ve got the measure of Indian food, it springs even more surprises on you. To paraphrase Bob Marley, you’ve got to have Kayal now whether the rain is falling or not.
8 Broad Street, NG1 3AL
Read comments and make your own
Comments