Crab Spaghettini, Crispy Squid, Hunters Ragu
A lot of people don’t like Jamie Oliver. Usually citing physical attributes: his floppy face, Cockney gibberish or stomach churning chumminess. Personally, I judge him on his achievements instead: activist, author, change-driver, philanthropist, innovator, having no qualms about telling Michael Gove that he’s a complete git. Surely that’s enough to forgive a mildly floppy face?One of the many strings to his bow, the Jamie’s Italian brand, continues to prosper with molto gusto and the listed building on Low Pavement provides a lovely setting for the Nottingham venue, striking a good balance of traditional and modern styles.
We started with an aperitif. I went for the Aperol spritz (£6.95) which is quintessentially Italian and uber cool; three parts Prosecco, two parts Aperol (a bitter, sweet orange liqueur) and one part soda. It’s neon orange in colour, served in a bulbous wine glass with huge chunks of ice. My dining partner opted for her ubiquitous glass of Prosecco (£5.95).
Our waitress was lovely, unfazed by me interrupting her as she talked through the specials - I had no choice, she’d warned there was only one portion of crab arancini (£6.50) left, so she swooshed off to secure it for me, before returning to explain the other options. The arancini were worth being deemed rude for - perfectly formed balls of brown crab meat and rice, crispy on the outside and garnished with pickled fennel, white crab meat and red chilli. We also ordered the awesome Italian nachos (£3.95), deep fried mini ravioli with a piquant arrabbiata sauce for dunking.
I’m a sucker for a good homemade pasta sauce, so went for the hunter’s ragù (£13.50). Made with lamb and shin of beef, it was packed full of deep flavours where layers of taste kept emerging, topped with crispy breadcrumbs and sage leaves. My friend also chose pasta, the crab spaghettini (£13.50) with capers, chilli, fennel anchovies and lemon, which essentially read as a list of all the flavours she loves.
We were too full for desserts but opted for another round of drinks. A glass of the moreish montepulciano red (£5.40/175ml), which had served me so well during my ragù consumption, and another Prosecco (£5.95/125ml) for the lady.
Take note that the outside seating area looks as if it could be a sun trap, so potentially a good venue when searching for the illusive sunny spot in the city centre.
24-26 Low Pavement, NG1 7DL. 0115 822 1421
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