Since being converted some years ago, the building on the edge of Trent Bridge has turned a touch more upmarket. Overlooking the river, sipping a glass of vino, digging into a meat board with the sun on your face, it’s easy to think you’ve been transported to Venice.
But it’s not Venice, it’s Nottingham. Romantic boating encounters are, at times, more akin to getting snogged by disco light on a Princess river cruise than being serenaded on a gondola. Riverbank is somewhere you can escape the tat and receive a slice of luxury. Complete with slick decor that includes an outdoor fire pit and comfortable furniture, the balance between contemporary and not-too-up-its-own-arse has been struck perfectly.
The sublime stilton and walnut salad (£6.95) came with slices of apple, celery and a cider vinaigrette; the warm tart of goats cheese (£6.95) was creamy beyond belief, accompanied by beets and a thin, buttery cracker base; the pan-fried Scottish scallops (£12.50) with black pudding were my favourite. The scallops were perfectly seared and the black pudding was unbelievably moreish. You won’t find any packeted rubbish here.
For mains, I had a pan-fried stone bass fillet (£16.95) on a bed of tomato and basil risotto with pickled fennel – the fish was crispy on the outside, juicy and falling apart on the inside, with the heavily flavoured risotto making it difficult to put the fork down. My friends had the Moroccan spiced lamb rump (£17.60) and the vegetarian Thai curry (£9.95) with sticky rice. The lamb, perfectly pink and juicy, was ridiculous. Laced with a tasty chickpea tagine and mint gnocchi discs, I reckon it was the best of the three. The Thai curry’s colourful mound of vegetables was light and fragrant – perfect.
It was a while before we could contemplate any dessert, but a natter and another spritzer did the trick. The chocolate mousse (£6.95) was indulgently thick and came adorned with salted peanut caramel. I nearly died. The warm apple tart tatin (£7.50) had a chewy, sugary pastry that fell from the apple centre, with Chantilly cream. But the absolute sex-in-the-mouth cherry topper was the cappuccino crème brulée with cinnamon doughnuts (£6.50). Yes, it was as amazing as it sounds.
The whole meal instigated some serious “mmm”s, and amazing service with good recommendations enhanced the experience. A side suggestion of truffle oil and parmesan chips (£3.95) have ruined all other chips for me. Proper food in one of the city’s best locations. Summer beckons, and so does Riverbank. Bridie Squires
Trent Bridge, West Bridgford, NG2 2GS. 0115 986 7960
We have a favour to ask
LeftLion is Nottingham’s meeting point for information about what’s going on in our city, from the established organisations to the grassroots. We want to keep what we do free to all to access, but increasingly we are relying on revenue from our readers to continue. Can you spare a few quid each month to support us?
