Oh Hockley, bearer of all things delicious and independent. The LeftLion office populace are not averse to smashing a few cobs ‘round these parts, but there are far more elegant eateries for those evenings when we’re feeling a touch more refined.
By the entrance to Oxfam is a set of stairs that lead to The Larder on Goosegate, an airy space with high ceilings and big windows which, if you’re lucky enough to get seated next to them, allow for a lordly view of the people on the street below. A woody, rustic foundation with a classy splash of minimalist decor achieves environment equilibrium effortlessly.
Tended to by courteous staff, we ordered a Prosecco and elderflower fizz (£4.95) each. It’s as fresh as it sounds, so dab in before the apparent impending worldwide shortage kicks in. Unexpectedly, we were also brought some olive-embedded focaccia and olive oil for dipping. A rather pleasant surprise.
Alongside the main menu they have a pre-theatre menu, so we had a little something from both. To start, it had to be the vanilla-cured salmon with pickled fennel and dill yoghurt from the pre-theatre menu (£13.95 for two courses, £15.95 for three). The salmon slithers were subtly flavoured and the tasty accompaniments complemented them wonderfully. From the main menu, English asparagus with quail eggs, Old Winchester, confit garlic and saffron dressing (£6.50) really wowed. Those tiny eggs with runny yolks, that perfectly cooked asparagus, the strong cheese shavings, the moreish dressing. I’ve had dreams about it ever since.
I was recommended the steak, so went for a 10oz hanger (£17.95) served medium rare, sliced across the grain. The mouth-watering magnificence came with huge, sea salt-laden, hand-cut chips and a side salad, and we were unable to resist a couple of sauces – peppercorn and brandy (£2.95) as well as stilton (£1.95). Both of which were unbelievable. From the pre-theatre menu we chose roasted squash with roscoff onion, fregola, aubergine pesto and goats cheese. The pesto-smeared fregola’s strong flavour was completed by the creamy goats cheese topper.
It was a push for pud, but we talked ourselves into a Nottinghamshire rhubarb and custard ginger biscuit (£5.90). The jeans were politely popping but, after washing down the crumbling layers of sweetness with another splash of Prosecco, the finely dined fight was won. And well worth it.
Seeing the place slowly fill up during the evening proved that this is a secret that’s not been very well kept, so I feel no guilt in whispering this message into your tabs: treat yourself. Bridie Squires 1st Floor, 16-22 Goosegate, NG1 1FE. 0115 950 0111
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