The closure of The Old Angel marked the end of an era for a much-loved pub. With a massive scaffolding question mark over its future – more student flats? The Libertines as landlords? A return to a church-cum-brothel? – we let out a collective sigh of relief when we discovered that the man behind The Alley Cafe was taking the helm.
Both outside and in are smart as you like, without stripping any of the old character and atmosphere of its former incarnation. Basically, it’s less grotty. The pool table may be gone, but where it stood is now a rather cosy, welcoming eating space with an open kitchen. And yes, the toilets are now safe to enter.
The new menu provides for all: meat lovers, veggies and vegans. Both me and my mate are carnivores, but knowing that The Alley Cafe’s food is more than moreish, we went for the vegetarian fish and chips (£8.95) and beef burger (£9.95).
The fish and chips was halloumi strips in Black Iris beer batter, and came with handcut chips, pea puree and homemade tartar sauce. I have a terrible weakness for the squeaky cheese and I was not disappointed; the fat fingers were lovingly encased in the lightest batter. I couldn’t quite decide on the pea puree, dipping both chips and the fingers in it, before scoffing it on its own. Lightly minted, it was a nice alternative to mushy peas.
My dining partner wondered how she was going to fit her burger in her mouth, what with the chunky patty, bacon and fat slab of Stilton wedged between the cob that came complete with fresh salad for extra height. Taking my advice to “just go for it”, she looked in seventh heaven mere seconds after taking a bite. The burger was seasoned with paprika, giving it a chorizo-esque flavour, and once your taste buds had dealt with that slap of joy, the distinctive blue cheese notes took control. A beauty of a burger.
We were stuffed, and knew it was a foolish quest to go in on the desserts, but we couldn’t resist. We ordered the baked cheesecake and the chocolate brownie (£4.50 each), both served with ice cream. Both vegan, you wouldn’t be any the wiser if you weren’t told. The ice cream, although very sweet, was creamy and delicious; the brownie was crumbly with a gooey middle; and the cheesecake – made from tofu and vegan cream cheese – had a divine base, dreamy poached apples and a tangy fruit sauce. A few bites in, we were beaten and had to take the leftovers home.
The city may be overrun with eateries at the moment, but The Angel’s ethically sourced vegan ingredients, organic locally sourced meats and bang-on homemade recipes will keep ‘em on the Nottingham food map for sure. Ali Emm
7 Stoney Street, NG1 1LG. 0115 947 6735 The Angel Microbrewery on Facebook
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