Herbert Kilpin

Herbert Kilpin: a butcher’s son from Nottingham whose fancy footwork took him to Italy, where he went on to found a little football team by the name of AC Milan. Not heard of him? That might be about to shift, thanks to the people behind Boilermaker and Junkyard naming their latest venture after him. Situated in Bridlesmith Walk, next door to Junkyard, it may not have caught your eye just yet. A beautiful Victorian building, they haven’t been tight about getting it back up to scratch – bright and open, it’s a space to relax in. Our visit, on a balmy summer’s eve, began as you’d hope – with a couple of pints. We had the Kilpin Pale Ale (£3.70), and their session ale, Pioneer (£3.40). Both Black Iris brews, the latter was particularly bursting with hoppy flavours.

Of an evening, you can go for either small plates and/or the full-on mains, plus a selection of sides. Feeling peckish, we went for the whitebait with paprika aioli (£6) and the tenderstem broccoli, fine beans, tahini and black onion seeds (£6) as starters. The whitebait was plentiful, and although the thought of eating whole fish weirds me, I got a grip and had one. The light fish and batter were just made to be dunked in the thick, tangy mayonnaise. Delicious.

As for the greens: no soggy limpness here, only fresh, crunchy goodness drizzled in oil. The black onion seeds are a genius addition, packing a flavour punch like the Muhammad Ali of the spice world.

Her fish quota obviously not fulfilled, my friend ordered the fish cakes with courgette noodles, baby spinach, chilli, lime and lemongrass dressing (£11.50) for her main course, while I went for the pork belly with salt and vinegar mash and black pepper kale (£13). The pork was juicy and tender, although a bit longer in the oven and the crackling would have been spot on. I couldn’t really taste the vinegar in my mash, but that didn’t stop it being mighty fine, and the kale had enough of the black stuff to really tickle your tastebuds.

The fishcakes were fat with a hearty mix of seafood, making each bite a nice surprise, and the courgette noodles – spirals of courgette crisped up – were perfect despite not being a carb (fret not, the fishcakes were packing potato).

Desserts. A lemon tart with Chantilly cream (£4.50) for the lady, and warm espresso and white chocolate brownie with berry compote and vanilla ice cream (£4.50) for the other lady. Oh – the compote – so tangy. The lemon tart – our tabs did laugh. Warm, gooey cake – be still, our beating hearts. We had regrets on the walk home, but not for lack of enjoyment. Merely that we’d pushed our bodies to the limits. Saying that, we’d do it all over again… Ali Emm 10 Bridlesmith Walk, NG1 2HB. 0115 948 4743 Herbert Kilpin website