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The Cumin

1 August 10 words: Jared Wilson
Setting up an Indian restaurant in this town is tough - particularly if you do so a stone’s throw from 4550 Miles From Delhi. Laguna and Chris Tarrant’s fave, MemSaab
The Cumin

Setting up an Indian restaurant in this town is tough - particularly if you opt to do so on Maid Marian Way, a stone’s throw from 4550 Miles From Delhi. Laguna and cutlery tosser Chris Tarrant’s fave, MemSaab. But two years ago the Arnand family did just that, after establishing similar eateries in Wembley, Leicester, Ilford and Middlesex. Spread over two floors, Cumin is intimate yet spacious, feeling modern without forgetting its Indian heritage, with swathes of reds and darks, solid furnishings and tastefully muted wallpaper.

For starters, I tried the masala fried tilapia (£7.00) a freshwater fish from Kenya. The four pieces came fried in crispy batter, marinated in a blend of lemon and spices, with a peppery edge. My guest went for the boti kebab (£6.00), five tender and tangy morsels of lamb subtly spiced with black pepper, lemon and chilli. I’m a big fan of spicy food, so for my main I scoured the menu for the red pepper symbols and plumped for the bhuna gosht (£10.50), a blend of lamb chunks and bell peppers, slow cooked with onions tomatoes and ginger. Personally I wouldn’t class this as a particularly ‘hot’ dish, although it left a pleasing tingly sensation in my mouth. My guest was more restrained with the murg makhni (£9.50), chunky chicken simmered in a mild and creamy tomato sauce.

We complimented these with a bottle of pinot grigio (£13.50), which was both refreshing and rounded, as well as a few of Cumin’s speciality side-dishes. The pilau rice (£2.50) was more than enough to share between two alongside a garlic naan (£2.50). The aloo paratha (£2.50), a pan-seared wholewheat bread filled with mashed potato and with a distinct cheese flavour went down a treat too – but best of all was the bondi raita (£3.00), a fresh creamy yoghurt spiced with roasted cumin and packed with crisp gram flour puffed balls.

We were too full to get stuck into the dessert menu, instead settling for the lemon towels and mints. But they have a few interesting looking dishes on there including pistachio kulfi (£3.00), gulab jamun (£3.00) –fried dumplings in syrup - and rasmalai (£3.00), which are milky sponge cakes. In the face of tough competition on Notts’ own curry quarter-mile, The Cumin more than holds it’s own. If you’re going on a rowdy work do then look elsewhere, but if you want to share an intimate meal, ahem, cumin and grab a table.

The Cumin, 62-64 Maid Marion Way, NG1 6BJ. 0115 941 9941
The Cumin website

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