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The Comedy of Errors


1 April 11 words: Jared Wilson
Ostrich isn’t normally something you’d find on an Indian menu, but it works superbly. For the health conscious it’s one of the best meats going
MemSaab Nottingham

MemSaab is situated on Maid Marian Way among tough competition from the likes of The Cumin and 4550 Miles from Delhi (due to reopen this April after refurbishment). But from the moment you walk in you can see why they do well. A consistent winner at the Nottingham restaurant awards, the stylish yet not overbearing décor and the comfy spacious seating makes for an intimate evening, whether you’re eating in a group of two or twenty.

I started with the tandoori ostrich (£8.50) a free range fillet infused with garlic and red chilli. Ostrich isn’t normally something you’d find on an Indian menu, but it works superbly. For the health conscious it’s one of the best meats going – low in fat and cholesterol and high in calcium, protein and iron. Most importantly it’s absolutely delicious. My guest opted for the MemSaab salad (£6) of spiced mixed vegetables and curried chickpeas and was more than happy with her selection too.

For my main I had their tandoori combination (£17.50); the Indian equivalent of a meat feast with chicken tikka, boti padina (lamb), tandoori chicken and Sigri Jhinga (king prawn). My guest went for the mildy less carnivorous chicken biriyani (£13.50) cooked with spiced basmati rice and flavoured with mint and saffron. Both were piquant and distinctive, with portions large enough for neither of us to finish.

On the side we shared a peshwari and a chilli and coriander naan (£2.95 and £3.25). The way MemSaab bake bread is worth mentioning; in an 8-strong kitchen they have a chef and oven dedicated exclusively to this, whereas many places don’t. You can taste the difference.

Not much room left for dessert, but we had a bit of their pistachio kulfi (£4.50) and their fresh fruit salad (£4.95), which were both divine. We were driving so we couldn’t delve into the wine menu, but a quick glance showed us (a) it was more than full and (b) plenty of thought had gone into matching it with the dishes. There are lots of beers and fruit juices available too.

It’s clear that Naj Aziz, the owner of MemSaab, and his staff work hard to raise the experience of Indian fine dining above your average late night boozy feed. At £30-40 a head including drinks this place isn’t as easy on the pocket as many curry houses, but your stomach will thank you for the investment. Don’t come in here after eight pints. Do come in here if you want to taste the best.

12-14 Maid Marian Way, NG1 6HS, 0115 957 0009

MemSaab website

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